Culture, People and Stories of The Land of Oak & Iron

The Land of Oak & Iron’s most valuable resource is ultimately its people.  We celebrate those people and the way they have created and evolved our culture.

The People

The Land of Oak & Iron’s most valuable resource is ultimately its people, and over the centuries, the indigenous inhabitants of this fertile valley have been enriched by waves of immigrants from other countries as well as parts of these islands. Earlier settlers included the Belgian ironworkers brought from Liege by the Crowleys, German swordmakers who settled in Shotley Bridge; and the French immigrants fleeing religious persecution. Work in the mines and factories drew people from Scotland, Ireland and the midlands, and the building of the railway brought an influx of Irish families fleeing the famine. From 1830s, Stella and Blaydon drew hundreds of Irish families to the traditionally Catholic enclave where plenty of work was available as the Tyne was deepened and straightened and industry blossomed: much of this was down to the Cowen family, evolved directly from the Crowley tradition.

Our Culture

This melting pot of people from other countries as well as different parts of these islands gave a stimulating freshness to the evolution of the area’s folk culture.  The environment of relative paternalism represented by wealthy local employers such as the Crowleys, the Bowes, the Claverings and the Cowens meant that the working classes were in a better position to develop a cultural life: learning to read, write poetry, songs and stories; play and hear music of all kinds; participate in pageants and plays; create visual images with wood carvings, etchings, pigments, early cameras.  The beneficence and philanthropy of the wealthy families brought ordinary people into contact with high culture, including eminent architects and artists, skilled Swiss ornamental plasterers, sculptors, opera singers.  Such exposure bred a strong sense of cultural aspiration: originality and creativity were encouraged

The Land of Oak & Iron echoes with music and poetry of all kinds, with a rich tradition of folk in particular. Two figures stand out at opposite ends of the social spectrum: Tommy Armstrong (1848-1920) born in Shotley Bridge, was a songwriter known as the ‘Pitman Poet’ or ‘Bard of the Northern Coalfield’. His songs include Wor Nanny’s a Mazor, The Trimdon Grange Explosion. William Shield (1748-1829) a musical genius, was an English composer born in Swalwell, who studied music with Charles Avison, cathedral organist and tutor to the Bowes family. Shield became one of the directors of Covent Garden Opera house in the 1780s, and a hugely successful composer of light operas, Master of the King’s Music, also a close friend of George IV. He is buried in Westminster Abbey.

The riches of the Land of Oak & Iron lie not only in fertile soil, mineral wealth, invention, industry and a history that goes back to the Romans.  Its greatest wealth lies in its people, and people love stories.  The myths & legends of the Land of Oak & Iron were set down in 1902 by chronicler and adventurer James William Fawcett, from Satley, drawing on centuries of traditional tales, many of them passed down by word of mouth.  In Tales of Derwentdale, republished by the Trust, you can read Devilish stories of witches, giants, boggles, moss-troopers, murderers and uncanny happenings, richly illustrated by the exquisite wood-cuts of Thomas Bewick.

Rapper sword dancing is unique to the North-East of England, originating in mining villages. Its origins are disputed and the tradition varies from village to village, A team of five people continuously linked by flexible swords called rappers weave in and out of figures for display. They are accompnaied by two comic characters known as Tommy and Betty. The Tommy, who introduces the dancers with a traditional calling-on song, and then provides a running commentary, is usually dressed in top hat and tails; the Betty, a man dressed in women’s clothing, proivides a teasing and mocking comic response.

The People

The earlier owners of the Gibside estate were the Marleys and the Blakistons. In 1693, Elizabeth Blakiston married Sir William Bowes, whose family seat was at Streatlam. His acquisition of the mineral-rich estate seems to have been the reason for Crowley’s move into the Derwent Valley and the Bowes family started to commercially exploit their coal reserves: it was the beginning of a rapid rise in family fortunes. William’s death in 1706 did not affect the enterprise: his widow was a formidable operator in what became known as ‘The Fighting Trade’. It was her third son, George, who built Causey Arch and developed the estate into a Georgian landscape garden.

On his death in 1760, his only child, Mary Eleanor, became England’s wealthiest heiress at the age of 11. She married John Lyon, 9th Earl Strathmore, on her 18th birthday, and when she was widowed in 1776, became the victim of an abusive conman, a period she survived triumphant. Her son, the 10th Earl, restored the family fortunes but, by failing to marry the mother of his only child, ensured that his legacy would be contested. His son, John Bowes, was awarded the English property but not the title, and on his death, Gibside became the property of the Scottish family, now calling themselves Bowes-Lyon.

The Cowens are central to the story of the LoO&I. When Ambrose Crowley set up his ironworks in Winlaton in 1692, not only was the industrial future of the area dramatically altered, but also its social and political culture. By providing housing, medical care and pensions for his workmen and their families, as well as education for their children, Crowley gave birth to a radically different society. A century later, the Cowens were part of that tradition.

Henry (Harry) Clasper (1812 – 1870) was a champion rower, winner of both the World and Scottish championships. Born in Dunston, he had worked in the pits in Jarrow and then, back in Dunston, as a coke burner and a wherryman . He was an innovative boat designer who pioneered the development of the racing shell and the use of outriggers; he is also said to have invented spoon-shaped oars. When he died on July 12th 1870 at the age of 58, his funeral procession attracted crowds estimated between 100,000 to 130,000 people.

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